Laos

Most Horrible Motorbike Ride Ever

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I took the most horrendous motorbike ride ever this morning on my way into work. I left the house around my usual time on a Saturday, about 7 a.m., and I saw on the Thailand Meteorological Department (TMD) radar on my phone that a pretty bad storm was heading our way and was, in fact, almost upon us. I threw on my rain gear, put on my sandals, put my shoes and socks into a bag, rolled up my pants, and headed to Vientiane on my ‘bike.

It wasn’t too bad on my way to Salakham village, a couple of kilometers away, where I stopped to get gas. After I left the station, the storm really hit and continued all the way, another 14 km, into Vientiane. ALL THE WAY! There was heavy, heavy rain, fierce winds that threatened to knock me over and kept blowing me around on the road, and much thunder and lightning that flashed and roared around me. With the heavy rain came flooded roads, some about a few feet deep and lapping at my engine, most of the way into the city. In addition, I had to take off my glasses, which left my vision severely impaired. Almost the entire ride was full of danger, and I rode accordingly–very, very slowly. I could barely see out of my side mirrors, so any traffic coming up from behind was almost impossible to notice.

I managed to make it safely to the school, but I was, even with my rain gear on, very wet. Luckily, one of the other teachers, Rebecca, had an extra Vientiane College shirt at her desk and loaned it to me while I taught my classes. The classes were successful, though I was still shell-shocked from the ride in.

The storm finished passing through about 8 o’clock, but, again, it was the worst ride I’ve ever taken on my motorbike and the most dangerous, including rides at night through terrible storms. Never again, hopefully!

Today in Laos–Flash Flood in the North

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It’s raining lightly in Vientiane at the moment, and we haven’t had an overwhelming amount recently, but in the north, it’s a different story. This is from the Vientiane Times:

Floodwaters surge around Laos-China border crossing as Luang Namtha declares disaster zone.

Luang Namtha province in northern Laos was declared a disaster zone on Saturday after flash floods surged around the Laos-China border crossing in Boten, inundating buildings, a special economic zone, farmland and critical infrastructure across more than 30 villages.

Of course, this is nothing like the recent Nepal flash flood, but I’m sure the people in Luang Namtha are feeling stricken.

Too Much Rain

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Finally . . . FINALLY . . . after 2 weeks, I was able to walk through my front yard to go out to the main road to do some walking without getting my shoes completely water logged. It’s been that long since I’ve been able to do any jogging or power walking at all. Tomorrow, barring any rain overnight, I’ll be able to get back to my morning routine.

There’s a restaurant owner a few minutes down the road who’s had the same problem–3 to 4 inches of water, above the ankles, at least, for the past couple of weeks. I’ve been walking through the yard in my sandals, so I ordered some fried rice and shrimp from the place yesterday and that’s when I talked to him.

The same problem occurred last year, though not for so long a time, and I posted about it, with a YouTube video, here.

I sure hope this dry spell lasts a while, a week or so at least, though that’s doubtful. I plan on going to Nongkhai next week for several days. Fingers crossed.

Rainy Season in Laos

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Speaking of the rainy season in Laos, which I mentioned in my previous post, it rained quite heavily a few nights ago. The two ponds on either side of my house filled up and overflowed into my yard, a somewhat usual occurrence this time of year. In the past I’ve foregone the pleasure of taking my morning jog because it was impossible to walk out to the main road without getting my running shoes completely drenched. Normally, it takes a few days without rain and with lots of sunshine to reduce the amount of water in my yard.

But now I have a backup for that. My place of employment, Vientiane College, installed a small gym, complete with a few treadmills, for teachers and staff to use on the top floor of the building. So, before my normal class periods begin in the evening, I have time in the afternoon to do either some jogging or some power walking. Hooray, no more down time

I still have to take my shoes off and put them in a plastic bag while I wear my old sandals coming and going to the main road through my yard. It’s impossible, for me at least, to ride through the yard without putting my feet down to balance my motorbike through all the water, which right now is about three to four inches deep in a few places. When I get to the school, about 16 kilometers away, I can remove the sandals, let my feet dry, and put on some nice, dry socks and shoes. So, I can do cardio exercising without skipping many days.

The next time I get the opportunity, I’ll take a photo of our wonderful new, albeit small, gym.

Beginning of Buddhist Lent

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Yesterday, July 29th, was the first day of Buddhist Lent, Boun Khao Phansa (boon cow PHANsa, approximately), which lasts for three months and ends on October 26th. Lent marks the period when monks are supposed to stay at their home temples throughout the time.

As it is described in the Vientiane Times (subscription required):

“Far more than a religious celebration, Khao Phansa is a season that encourages people to pause, reflect and reconnect with the values of compassion, generosity and self-discipline. It is a time when monks devote themselves to deeper spiritual practice, while ordinary people seek to improve themselves through acts of kindness and moral living.

“Across Laos, families prepare for Khao Phansa by visiting temples, making merit and offering essential items to support monks during their retreat. Candles, new robes, umbrellas, rice, drinking water, dried food and daily necessities are among these gifts. These offerings symbolise gratitude and respect, while helping monks to devote themselves to their religious practice without concern for material needs.”

The Times also tells about the history behind the period:

Often referred to as the “rains retreat,” Buddhist Lent has its roots in ancient India. During the rainy season, travelling became difficult because roads turned muddy and rivers overflowed.

As Buddhism spread and the number of monks increased, many travelled from place to place, unintentionally damaging farmers’ rice fields and vegetable gardens. To protect the crops and the harmony between monks and local communities, the Buddha established the tradition that monks should remain in one place throughout the rainy season.

And in summary:

“As candles continue to shine in temples across Laos during these sacred months, they symbolise more than tradition. They represent hope, wisdom and the enduring light of compassion. Whether through prayer, generosity or quiet reflection, Buddhist Lent is a reminder that true peace begins within ourselves, and that even the smallest acts of kindness can brighten the lives of others.”

I wrote about Lent last year and my partner Nai’s preparation of a goodie basket for the monks. He’s a very devout Buddhist when it comes to these religious events. But for me, about the only real significance of the period is that when it ends on October 26th, the next day is the final day of the Vientiane Boat Racing Festival. I have a few posts that you can read here and here about that festival.

Sad News From Laos Cave

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There is sad news from the ongoing Laos cave rescue attempt as divers and officials have indefinitely suspended the operation that was still searching for two other miners trapped in the submerged cave. They stated that the conditions at the cave entrance were now too dangerous for rescue attempts to continue and that the lives of the rescuers would also be endangered.

But, the article also goes on to say that there is the possibility that there are no miners left in the cave system.

“But Richards said some of the rescued miners told officials that there were only six of them trapped in the cave, including one who managed to extract himself at the outset of the emergency and alert authorities.

Richards said that one possible theory is that eight miners entered the cave and three got out on their own and went into hiding because their mining activities are illegal in Laos and subject to prosecution.”

My question is where are the families of the two purportedly trapped miners? Are they still waiting at the cave? Are the two really still in the cave? I’ll keep you posted as possible future developments unfold.

Laos Cave Rescue Update

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No news is probably, in this case, bad news. Rescuers haven’t reported any new findings from the rescue attempt. They are going to try rappelling down a shaft today, Thursday, June 4th, in an attempt to try to find two missing miners, according to this article from AOL.

According to the article, there may be a chance that there aren’t any more miners left in the cave system, that the only ones in there were the five that were taken out. You can read about that near the end of the article. Let’s hope that’s the case.

Laos Cave News

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The news about several Laos villagers trapped in a cave by rising water is probably worldwide news, and, of course, has captured intense interest here in Laos.  Here’s the latest information I have.

Introduction

According to the Laotian Times, several villagers entered the cave system in the Long Chaeng district, which is about 75 miles north of Vientiane, back on May 19.  Apparently, they were searching for gold and hunting wildlife, activities that remain common in remote parts of Laos but are rarely discussed publicly and are considered to be somewhat illegal.

Because of heavy rainfall, the system became flooded and trapped the villagers inside. The Times article linked above continues

“According to local accounts, the villagers initially avoided posting about the emergency online out of fear of possible backlash from authorities. Only after repeated rescue attempts failed did they seek help through social media, sending a video via Facebook Messenger to a local influencer.

The influencer later shared the footage publicly with a caption asking for urgent help, saying villagers and district officials were trying to pump water out of the cave to rescue the seven people trapped inside.”

The Rescue Attempt

This was a similar situation to the Thailand cave rescue of 12 boys back in 2018. Lao and Thai rescuers found five of the villagers on May 27, and they were finally removed from the cave, alive, on May 30th, but two still remained trapped inside. An international team of rescue experts was requested to help with the situation.

Latest

I haven’t heard or read anything lately about the two people still trapped in the cave. Have they been found or rescued yet? Let’s hope so and hope for a successful and happy outcome to this situation. Upshot: don’t go into Laos caves during rainy season, even if the weather looks OK. It can change in a few moments.

Update from CNN : The other two trapped villagers haven’t been found yet. Apparently, they weren’t part of the group of five who entered, but had gone into the cave system some time before the later group and had taken a different route. They are still being looked for, and an exciting discovery of a new way in has been found. Click here to read more.

Pi Mai Laos 2026 pt. 2

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After the last post of April 15th, the next day I went into Vientiane to take in a few other places, a temple (wat) and one of the few restaurants that were open. Rather than post a lot of individual photos, I ran all my videos through the DaVinci Resolve editor and made one fairly short 10 minute video. You can watch it below. Enjoy.

Pi Mai Laos 2026

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Pi (pee) Mai (my) Laos translates into Happy Laos New Year, which occurred last week from about April 13th through the 18th. The official observance was from the 14th through the 17th, according to the government, with the New Year day on the 15th. I usually go out to Nai’s sister’s house near the Mekong River about 8 km from my house, an easy ride out. The celebration includes house cleaning, sprinkling and washing the Buddha statues at the various temples (wats) throughout the country, water play (a lot of it) among friends and family with buckets of water and high-powered super squirt guns, and eating and drinking, a lot of that too. Which category do I fall into? Probably visit friends, clean my house (a usual daily chore anyway, no holiday necessary), and drinking too much?? beer Lao. But not too much!

It’s mostly a fun time and it occurs during the hottest time of the year, so the water play is usually welcome. Some foreigners living in Laos hate Pi Mai, but mostly don’t mind it or actually enjoy it. Me? I mostly like it. Here are a few images from this year’s celebration.

These photos are from the 15th, when I went out to the farm along the village. Click on them 2 or 3 times to see a full size view. Below is a photo of Nai’s farm, which is usually tended by Nui.

A view of Nai's farm

This very new road, opened in January, out to the villages along the Mekong River was a great revelation. The old road was one of the worst around this area that you could travel on. It was a nightmare during rainy season, with no street lights, severely pot-holed, dangerous at night. This new one is great, lit with street lights and very smooth all the way out to the village where I’m going and beyond, traveling along the river all the way to Vientiane.

new road to villages along the Mekong river

The new road out to the villages along the Mekong River.

Now, about the water play. Despite the great road, I’m sure I’ll get somewhat wet going out to the village. Here’s what I have to look forward to! However, I didn’t get too wet going out there, but coming back later in the evening was horrible. I got soaked, my glasses got wet ( I couldn’t put down my motorbike helmet visor because it has a dark tint), and I don’t see that well at night. I made it home OK, though.

water play during Pi Mai Laos

Not looking forward to this.

OK, I got to Nui’s house without too many water problems. Here are a few of the people who were there and a look at the food we ate, along with the ubiquitous Beer Lao.

Here’s Nui along with her friend, Ms. Tia, from the neighborhood.

Nui and friend

Nui and Tia.

This is another of Nai’s sisters, Lot, in the blue dress, with her girlfriend, Bui.

Lot and her girlfriend.

Lot and Bui.

Here Lot and Bui enjoy a little water play.

Lot and girlfriend

Lot and Bui enjoy some water play.

This cute young boy of about 3 1/2 years old was given to Nai and Nui by one of Nai’s nieces to look after until he’s grown up, not an unusual practice among some Lao people.

You child from Laos

Young boy Ai (pronounced eye)

Here’s some of the food we ate. Plenty to go around for all.

food at Pi Mai party

Some of the food we ate.

Here’s one of my favorite Laos foods, grilled fish from the river. Yum!

food at Pi Mai party

More of the food, including my favorite, grilled fish.

Lot, Bui, and Ai play in the water from a hose. Looks like they’re having fun.

playing in water from hose

Lot, Bui, and Ai play in the water from a hose.

Oh-oh. Lot has a bucket full of water and she’s heading straight for me. However, she only got me wet a little bit and doled out wetness to the others around the table. This happened quite often, though, with Ai being the chief perpetrator.

Lot with bucket of water

Lot with a full bucket of water.

That’s all for the time I spent out at Nai’s sister’s house. The next day I went into Vientiane to check out the celebrations. I do that in the next post. I’ve also made quite a few posts from past Pi Mais. You can do a search in the search box, but here are ones from 2014, 2016, 2017, and 2021. That’s all for now. Stay tuned for more later.

P.S. Oddly enough, I didn’t get any photos of Nai. I think he was mostly in back doing the cooking. Oh, well, sorry Nai. If your curious, you can see him in the 2016 and 2017 photos by clicking on the links above.